The casino is spread over four levels, and regulars-identified by the colour of the wristbands they are given at the entrance-play in the far quieter Royale poker room on level three, India’s largest gaming room.

The ship, outfitted in ’70s décor, complete with glass chandeliers, is open all day every day of the year. It takes a second look to spot the real gamblers, the high-rollers who have flown in simply to play: A steel mill owner engrossed at the blackjack table the high-profile bodyguard of a Bollywood actor, here off-duty, with his family the six Chinese women playing quietly with a mountain of chips piled high before them, determined to beat the house. India’s largest casino ship is bustling with every kind of punter, from honeymooning couples making eyes at each other over their roulette chips to boisterous groups of mostly male vacationers, who start with the slot machines but eventually give everything a shot. It is 2.30 am but in the Mandovi, the river that bisects Goa, the Deltin Royale is all bright lights and energy. Jaydev Mody on board the Deltin Royale, India’s largest casino ship